There were three parts of Ireland I had to see on my trip: Dublin, of course; the Cliffs of Moher and the countryside; and a small town. For my final leg, I spent two days in Galway.
Galway, for the record, is not exactly a small town. The population may not top 80,000 people, but it’s the fourth largest city in Ireland. (Not bad for a country the size of Indiana!) But as far as little Irish towns go, getting to many of them from Dublin requires a car and I wasn’t about to drive — and navigate — the Irish roads myself!
But Galway has many of the charms of a smaller city; in fact it is loaded with charm. The streets are colored like a Crayon box, each shop a bright contrast from the next. A massive river cuts through the city and on its bank sits a stunning cathedral. The pubs are adorable, it’s packed with whisky bars, and the oysters are the best I’ve ever had.
Two Days in Galway, Ireland
This region of western Ireland is traditionally very Irish, with some areas speaking almost exclusively Gaelic (or what the Irish call, well, Irish). Everyone I met spoke English, but some of their accents were tough to decipher (at least compared to Dublin).
Even though I only spent two days in Galway, I enjoyed it so much it ended my trip on a high note.
Getting to Galway
After spending the weekend in Glasgow, I flew back to Dublin airport and hopped on a CityLink express bus headed west. The airport doubles as a bus station hub, with long distance buses spider webbing around the country. The buses are huge, comfortable coaches with wifi that make little or no stops until their long distance destinations. Tickets can be pre purchased online or bought on spot (and credit cards are accepted). Arrive early — they leave right on time!
Trains also leave Dublin’s city center bound for Galway, taking about the same amount of time. If you’re already in the city, the train might be a better option than going to the airport bus terminal. But both options are easy ways to get to the western side of Ireland.
Where to Drink Whiskey in Galway
After the beautiful drive through the countryside, I checked into my hotel and immediately set out into the city for dinner. There are a ton of great spots to eat in Galway, but unfortunately I wouldn’t be able to hit them all. I picked The Front Door for dinner, a lively pub serving Irish classics, connected to a whisky bar. Among the great selection of Irish whiskey is the Sonny Molloy’s Redbreast 16 Year Old Single Cask, a completely sherry-aged pot still whiskey exclusive to The Front Door. (Spoiler alert: it’s beautiful!)
Then I meandered to Garavan’s, another one of Galway’s great whiskey bars. They have an extensive list of Irish whiskey (plus others from around the world) and a great set up of whiskey flights. Named Irish Whiskey Bar of the Year several times, it’s obvious to see why.
Even though Galway’s city center is small, it’s packed with pubs. Others on my list I couldn’t possibly hit: Neáchtain Pub, 1520, Taaffes Pub, and O’Conners.
Where to Eat in Galway
The next morning I got up bright and early to experience everything I could in Galway. I attempted to start at the Kai, a New Zealand café known for its cakes, but when it was closed I improvised at Urban Grind, one of the many coffee shops scattered throughout the city. The tiny spot serves a little menu of food and the Full Irish Breakfast (with black pudding!!) was phenomenal.
And the food only got better from there. Later, for lunch, I popped into The Quays, initially intending to stay only long enough for a Guinness and see the former-cathedral-turned-restaurant’s interior. Instead I ended up ordering Galway Oysters and my life will never be the same. Plucked from the Atlantic in the nearby bay, the native oysters are giant and full of meat, and some of the best oysters in the world. And that’s not just my opinion! (Here’s what to eat in Ireland.)
I would have loved to hit Ard Bia at Nimmo’s for West Coast monkfish, Oscar’s for more oysters, Tig Coilli for traditional Irish music, or Anair for Michelin-rated Irish food, but there’s only so much a lady can eat in a day! Besides, I had sights to see.
What to See in Galway
In order to simultaneously walk off my breakfast and work up an appetite for lunch all before it was time to leave Galway, I squished all the sites into a few hours. Or at least it felt like it! I was happy just walking along the colorful streets, admiring the unique shops and flower-covered doorways.
But I weaved my way to some of Galway’s famous sites. The Spanish Arch, an overrated arch dating from the 1500s not actually built by the Spanish; the Lynch Memorial Window, a wall from the 1400s that turned “lynch” into a verb; and the 14th Century Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas, supposedly where Christopher Columbus prayed before his American-discovering voyage. It’s also where the famous Galway Market is held on weekends.
My favorite was the Galway Cathedral. Built in just 1958, it’s one of the youngest cathedrals in Europe but easily one of the most impressive as far as I’m concerned. Why? It was completely unique. After a while, many European churches start to look like replicas of each other, but the Galway Cathedral breaks the mold.
As I walked through the heart of the city, I stumbled upon a group of musicians playing traditional Irish music in the street. Known as “buskers,” street musicians are all over Galway with various levels of talent. These buskers, however, played such wonderful music that it brought me to tears. It was one of those moments that really drew me into where I was and it was almost surreal.
What to Do Beyond Galway
Galway is surrounded by some of Ireland’s most beautiful — and most popular — tourist spots. The Cliffs of Moher are under two hours away (much closer than from Dublin!). Guided tours combining the Cliffs and the Arran Islands are offered from the city center including transportation. The Connemara Coast and Wild Atlantic Way are also not far, or the stunning Ashford Castle, built in 1226. (Here are more day trip tours from Galway.)
Charming City, Charming Locals
Before I jumped on the bus back to Dublin for the final night of my trip, I stopped for one last drink in Galway at O’Connells. Known for its stellar pint of Guinness (yes, the quality of pints vary throughout different pubs) and impressive beer garden, instead I went for whiskey.
I pulled a stool up to the bar, joining the locals having an afternoon pint (on a Tuesday, no less!) and ordered a Powers 12 whiskey. Immediately they started talking with me and soon half the pub (who I assume were strangers) were all in a conversation together. It happened every place I went in Ireland, proving just how friendly the Irish are and why it makes such a great place to travel alone.
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I will never forget Galway’s colorful streets or the oysters, and I hope it won’t be long until I get to experience them both again.
Related :: A Day Trip to The Cliffs of Moher, Touring Teeling Distillery in Dublin, and What to Eat in Ireland
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