Three Days of Guinness & Greenery in Dublin

St. Paul's Church along the River Liffey in Dublin.
St. Paul's Church along the River Liffey in Dublin.

Sure you can have a pint of Guinness in an “Irish bar” in any city in the United States, but it’s nothing like being in Ireland. The Guinness doesn’t taste the same and the pubs just can’t replicate that 150-year-old Irish vibe. But during my 3 days in Dublin, I learned there’s much more to the city than just Guinness and greenery.

Here are six reasons you need to go to Dublin.

6 Reasons to Go to Dublin

I have a weakness for old streets and even older pubs, along with an obvious obsession for whiskey. And after recently discovering that Irish whiskey is actually worth drinking, I decided to visit Dublin to truly explore the spirit and culture of Ireland.

A pint of Guinness in Ireland.
Apparently Guinness is not black, but a deep ruby red.

1. The Guinness Tastes Better in Ireland.

Minutes after checking into my hotel in Dublin, I went for lunch at a nearby pub and ordered a Guinness. My first sip of the smooth, chocolatey, foamy stout was sensational — and not just because I was jet-lagged and thirsty! It was the best Guinness I’d ever had up until that point. (I’ll argue several other pints during my trip were better!)

Turns out it wasn’t just my imagination. Guinness is better in Ireland than anywhere else and several studies actually confirm it. Some say it’s because the atmosphere of Irish pubs can’t be beat. But an Irish friend explained that Guinness goes bad easily, so the more pints a pub pours, the fresher the beer, the pipes, and the keg. Plus it’s brewed in 50 countries, often using local ingredients (like water) that change the taste.

I ordered Guinness at almost every meal (yes, once even at breakfast) and was smitten at the way it settles and even more at the way it tastes. (Apparently it takes exactly 119.53 seconds for a pint to settle.) If you want to experience the history of the 260 year old beer, hit the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin, the country’s most visited tourist attraction.

 

Pubs on Temple Bar street in Dublin.
The colorful Temple Bar neighborhood in Dublin.
The Long Room of Trinity College in Dublin.
The Long Room of Trinity College is home to 200,000 books.

2. Dublin is Adorable.

Dublin is one of those cities that looks exactly like a postcard everywhere you look. Cute, colorful pubs line narrow, weaving streets, contrasted with old churches and historic buildings. If that’s not enough, the River Liffey runs through the city, crossed with bridges of all designs, and green parks are all over. (Seriously, Ireland is unbelievably green!)

Don’t miss the Temple Bar neighborhood, full of brightly painted pubs, some dating back hundreds of years. It’s touristy, but a great place for a bar crawl. St. Patrick’s Cathedral is the most stunning of the many churches in Dublin and the tallest in Ireland. Remains of Dublin Castle, built in 1204, still remain in the city center next to the Irish state apartments and throne room.

But the most impressive place in Dublin is the Long Room at Trinity College. Most tourists are drawn to the Book of Kells, an elaborately illustrated Bible created in 800 AD. That was neat, but the Long Room was incredible: a 200-foot long corridor housing 200,000 books.

 

The pot stills at Teeling Distillery in Dublin.
The pot stills at Teeling Distillery in Dublin.

3. There’s More to Irish Whiskey than Jameson.

The story of Irish whiskey closely coincides with the story of Ireland’s history. And before you think Jameson is all there is to Irish whiskey, think again. Irish whiskey once made up 60% of the world’s whiskey and was known as the world’s best. Politics, American Prohibition, and a pissed-off tax man who took his newly-invented column still to Scotland all contributed to its downfall. (Today Ireland makes less than 5% of the world’s whiskey.) Which is why Americans have hardly heard of the dozens of other fantastic Irish whiskey brands.

On my first day in Dublin I met a local whiskey friend at the Irish Whiskey Museum, where tours go through a Disney-ified version of the history of Irish whiskey. For those unfamiliar with the spirit, it’s a good starting point, especially if you end it with a blend-your-own Irish whiskey like we did. They even provide a tiny bottle to take your creation home (or you can drink it on site like us!).

The next day I toured the real deal: Teeling Whiskey Distillery, the first whiskey distillery in Dublin city limits since 1976. Teeling’s single malt is what made me rethink Irish whiskey. It was nothing like the Irish whiskey I’d had before and soon I realized most Irish whiskey was much better than, well, Jameson. The tour of the working distillery is short and sweet, finished with a tasting. The distillery is also home to a bar (with the best Irish coffee I’ve ever had) and a gift shop where you can bottle your own single cask. Don’t miss the Distillery Select bottling only available at the distillery: a beautiful Hungarian oak aged whiskey. (More about touring Teeling here.)

And Dublin is covered with whiskey bars serving impressive selections of Irish whiskey. Dingle Whiskey Bar, Palace Bar, and Bowe’s have great selections. My favorites were Red Breast (especially the 21), Writer’s Tears Red Head, and Connemara (a peated Irish whiskey!). But don’t miss Green/Red Spot, Glendalough, Powers, Teeling, Tullamore, and Slane.

 

Cliffs of Moher in Ireland
The Cliffs of Moher are stunning (and only 3 hours away from Dublin).
A colorful street in Galway, Ireland.
Galway, on Ireland’s west coast, is an adorable little town.

4. Dublin is Surrounded by Stunning Scenery and Charming Towns.

With Irish whiskey adventures under my belt, next on the agenda was seeing the countryside. I took a guided day trip to the infamous Cliffs of Moher that included stops at The Burren, the tiny town of Doolin, and King John’s Castle. All day I zig-zagged around the country with a group of other eager tourists, marveling at the scenery.

The Cliffs of Moher is about a three-hour drive from Dublin, but the rolling green hills dotted with ancient castles makes the drive worth it. And the Cliffs themselves are a mind blowing 702 feet high overlooking the ocean and Arran islands. It’s truly a must see. (More on the day trip to the Cliffs here.)

A few days later, after spending the weekend in Scotland, I returned to Ireland to see the smaller side of the country. Dublin is Ireland’s largest city and I wanted to see a smaller town, so I spent a night in Galway. Galway is so adorably colorful and charming that it made my whole trip. Oh, and the oysters were the best I’ve ever had. (Here’s the whole story on Galway.)

Galway is a 2.5 hour bus ride from Dublin airport in a spacious, wifi-enabled luxury bus (with no stops in between). Trains from the city center are also available, but the bus is the better option if you’re coming from the airport.

 

Irish stew at Arthur's Pub in Dublin.
It may not look like much, but Irish stew (and Irish food) is delicious.

5. The Food is Delicious.

Irish food has a reputation for being bland at best, but I’m here to tell you that’s flat-out wrong. Anyone who thinks Irish food isn’t good wasn’t eating at the right places!

Food in Ireland is amazing and every meal I had was incredible. Irish food is mostly hearty, comforting dishes that pair perfectly with a pint of Guinness — and the notoriously dreary weather. Throughout my trip I ate a lot of classic Irish pub dishes, but my favorite was Steak and Guinness pie. Known as beef pot pie to Americans, it was hearty and rich and delicious.

But one thing I didn’t realize was Irish food includes a lot of seafood. Seafood stew, salmons, oysters, you name it. It makes sense, with the country being an island and all, but I never put two-and-two together. (Here’s what to eat in Ireland.)

 

St. Andrew's Church in Dublin.
St. Andrew’s Church in Dublin.

6. The Locals Are Friendly — and Funny.

Besides the scenery and everything I consumed, the locals made my entire trip. Everyone I met was so friendly, from servers in restaurants to people at the pubs. One night I found myself laughing almost to the point of tears with an elderly gentleman next to me at the bar. The next day I made instant friends with two men after helping them with their Irish Times crossword puzzle. (The clue was “American murder story,” so I was a convenient asset.)

Not to mention hanging out with several Irish friends that used to live in Chicago. Nothing beats learning about Irish whiskey from Irish guys who work in the industry! On my last night, I met one of them in the snug of Palace Bar — the little room at the end of the bar formerly reserved for women before they were allowed to publicly drink. (Pinky Blinders fans will know what I mean.) He taught me about Irish history and whiskey and Guinness and more. We hit three or four more pubs, trying Guinness and whiskey at each of them. It was simple, but the perfect way to end my trip. (And the burger at Bunsen wasn’t bad either!)

•••

Ireland was one of those places that I knew, instantly, that I’d love and that I would return to again and again. And even though I just barely got home, I’m already excited to return.

Related: What to Eat in Ireland, A Day Trip to Cliffs of Moher, and Touring Teeling Whiskey Distillery.

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links and I may receive a commission from them. Thank you for supporting the companies that support Whiskied Wanderlust.

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