The grand finale of my epic solo adventure to Italy was three days in Milan. Only two things mattered in Milan: seeing the opera at La Scala and experiencing Barolo wineries in the Piedmont region. Visiting a bone church, having ramen in my 13th country, and munching on Italian pastries were just the icing on the bucket list cake.
I took the train to Milan from Venice after two days in the City of Bridges, which followed a week of deliciousness in Rome. Once again, the easy 2.5 hour train ride made me wish for train travel in the U.S., but I’ve given up on that ever happening! Once in Milan, I had no time to lose, so I jumped right in.
Three Days of Opera & Wine in Milan
Milan has much more of a European vibe than Venice or Rome. The architecture is more modern, with a similar look as many European cities also rebuilt after World War II. That’s not to say Milan isn’t a pretty city. It is, undoubtedly. Just less visually unique than the other parts of Italy I visited.
That is, until I got to the Duomo. Arguably Milan’s trademark icon, the Duomo is the largest church in Italy. It took nearly six centuries to build and has a capacity of 40,000 people. The line to tour the Duomo stretched out into the crowded plaza. Since I didn’t have a skip the line tour booked, I admired the view from the plaza and moved onto the opera.
La Scala Opera House in Milan
There’s a funny thing I’ve noticed about opera houses. They are all boringly basic on the outside. I’ve walked by them without even noticing — which is saying something! But inside, they are stunningly magnificent. And usually unbelievably large, especially considering how small they look from the outside.
Milan’s opera house, Teatro alla Scala, is no different. While the outside is underwhelming, the inside is stunning. And not just its looks. La Scala is known as the world’s best opera house, famous for its unmasking acoustics that make even the best singers nervous to perform. Of course that’s on purpose: I learned on my opera house tour that acoustics are taken into account on every single surface and fabric inside the theater. Backstage ropes, the velvet lining the boxes, everything.
On my first night in Milan I checked off a bucket list item of epic proportions. Not only was I seeing an opera in the world’s best opera house, it was my 100th opera. (A completely coincidental milestone, if you can believe it!) I had extremely high expectations for the acoustics and the performance of Elixir of Love. And I’m happy to report it was better than I even imagined.
Even though most people don’t share my obsession with opera, I still recommend seeing an opera in Milan. They know how to do opera right so you’re sure to have a good time. But tickets aren’t easy to come by and not all seats have views of the stage. Also know that only the first row in the boxes have access to the subtitle screens, since they are tiny and below the railing. So book tickets early so you’re not disappointed. (More tips for the opera are here.)
Wine Day Trip from Milan
Happily on a high after the opera at La Scala, the next day I adventured on a Barolo winery day trip from Milan. Don’t tell the opera I said this, but the Piedmont region might have been as wonderful as La Scala. :) The small group tour picked us up early in the morning and drove us through the foggy morning traffic. Eventually, after the whole van fell asleep, we woke up to stunning views of rolling hills all covered in manicured lines of grapevines full of plump bunches waiting to be picked.
Our first stop was Marrone Winery, a family owned estate run by three sisters known for producing incredible Barolo, Barbesco, Chardonnay, and more. We learned all about Barolo wine production and I asked some really dumb whiskey-centric questions. (The group soon learned my true love of whiskey!) Then we had a four course lunch paired with wine. Talk about incredible! We stopped at Brezza Winery for another tasting before driving two hours back to Milan. (More on taking a day trip to Barolo from Milan here.)
What to do in Milan
On the last of my three days in Milan, I set out to see the rest of Milan’s sites. I still didn’t tour the Duomo or see The Last Supper in the Santa Maria delle Grazie (Vatican City ruined my taste for crowds). Instead I met some friends of friends at Marchesi 1824, a bakery that looks like a jewelry store inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The pastries are as pretty as jewelry and delicious, too.
I also hunted down the bone church in Milan. Officially known as the San Bernardino alle Ossa, the human bone-lined ossuary is worth a detour. Originally built in 1145, the walls were decorated with human bones when it was restored in 1679. (The bones came from the hospital that was once next door.) It’s not half as creepy as it sounds, plus it’s free to enter and can be toured in 20 minutes.
Even though I wanted to shop in Milan’s famous stores — the affordable ones in the Brera District or Navigli neighborhood, not the designer ones in the Fashion Quadrilateral! — I ended up sitting outside with a Spritz instead. After 10 days of incredible experiences, amazing adventures, and mind blowing meals, I wanted to catch my breath before going home. So I stopped for a classic Spritz to enjoy in the sunshine. I expected the Prosecco-based cocktail to be more refreshing than strong, but I was wrong and ended up with a delightful buzz. :)
What to eat in Milan
In just three days in Milan I checked off most of my What to Eat in Milan list: osso bucco at La Trattoria Milanese, one of the last true Milanese restaurants and my favorite meal of my trip. Plus truffle-covered pasta at Hosteria Barrome, polenta and pastries at Marchesi 1824, and pastries at Panzerotti Luini. So I opted for a fun twist for my final meal. I went for Japanese ramen, a tradition I eat wherever I am, at Osaka Ristorante. Milan marked my 20th city and 13th country having the soup, and it was fabulous.
Besides, I knew I’d eventually return to Milan for another opera. Then I’d check off the rest of my restaurant list: Al Ponte de Ferr, Ristorante Cracco’s, and Manuelina. And I’d actually hit the Milan whisky bars on my list: Mulligans, Casa Mia, The Spirit, and Bar Metro.
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That night I strolled down the streets of Milan one last time, on a high that only an epic trip can produce, overwhelmed with gratitude for my life and ability to travel alone. Italy was every bit as epic as I’d imagined in my wildest dreams. And even though it was the only place I dreamed I’d never go alone, I was so thankful that I did. Because sometimes experiencing something alone is actually better than the alternative.
Related :: a day trip to Barolo from Milan and touring La Scala Opera House.
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